Category: bake


    This is a cream-coloured one-layer cream cheese sponge with cream-coloured cream cheese icing (sprayed with pink lustre). It is the cakiest cake I’ve ever known, and it’s the most delicious. I love it like it’s my friend. I love that in this raucous world, where 8,000 useless recipes are published every day, we found each […]


    I love it when a food trend happens and I’ve got its number. Like how blancmange is panna cotta and pound cake is just cake, and avocado chocolate mousse is a stain on humanity. I was looking for an American pie. Oh, pie. Great and round and proud and delicious, and less intimidating to live with than a layer cake […]


    It is March 2008 and we have just got back from a trip to southeast Asia, Australia and all of that. The cupcake is only just a thing. Or actually I have no proper idea whether it’s a thing or not because I’m not on Twitter, so where would I find out what we like […]


    Baking is mad. There are a million different things that have a combo of butter, flour, sugar and eggs at their hearts. So, when I set out to make brioche, I wasn’t convinced I’d end up with brioche. Maybe I wasn’t capable of kneading all the butter and eggs in the nuanced way that would result in a soft, […]


    There have always been cookies. But more glamorous things kept usurping them. Cupcakes! Doughnuts! Cronuts! Even muffins. Plus, too many cookies are mediocre. The difference between a soft, chewy, crisp-around-the-edges cookie and a cookie that isn’t any of those things is colossal. Like the difference between buttery mashed potato and unseasoned, stringy mashed swede. I […]


    Why are we only supposed to eat gingerbread at Christmas? We have enough to eat then. These gingerbreads are nothing like the lads whose heads you like to bite off in December. They are soft, somewhere between cake and biscuit, and so perfectly spiced. And look how dark! I English-ised the recipe from Tartine but I […]


    It’s a source of much excitement to me that most of my best fruits can be turned into curds. So, when I’m not enjoying my freelance job and I have no time for a haircut and someone has vomited on my car and I feel kind of like I can’t do it anymore, I remember that […]


    Pies and tarts are the best for taking to your pal’s house. No heating of sauce, no fear of collapse, minimal balancing on the bus. So, stick this one in your back pocket (or, a cake tin), especially if you love a slightly savoury sweet thing. It’s the new custard tart. Eat it with loads of sour cream. […]


    Before granny died I did not ask her how she made those crumbly biscuits. I didn’t have her recipe; I didn’t have a recipe because I had no idea how to type the name of those crumbly biscuits into Ask Jeeves. I knew the word had that loaded, guttural ch sound in it, and granny liked […]


    When Richard lived in France he rang the landline at my university house in the hallway every night. He would ring from some freaky phone box because there wasn’t as much Skype in those days. He didn’t have Internet in his flat. Lol. He would often be eating a McDonald’s cheeseburger. But then when I’d […]